Internationally renowned perfumer, aromachologist by conviction, and musician by passion, Jean-Charles Sommerard composes natural and organic fragrances designed to spark emotion. From his organ tuned to more than 700 natural molecules (essential oils, CO2 extracts, isolates…), he blends them like a mixologist to create aromatic accords and unique wellness formulas.
“To become a giant alembic that would flood the world with the perfumes it had created…”, this is the wild dream Jean-Charles Sommerard has pursued since childhood, fueled by the influence of his father, a renowned artisan-distiller in Grasse. Unlike Jean-Baptiste Grenouille in Patrick Süskind’s novel, who was never destined to become a perfumer, the founder of Sevessence was born into it, nurtured by fertile family soil. Trained in aromatherapy and fluent in English, Spanish, and a bit of Chinese, he initially sought to heal humans and animals through aromatic and medicinal plants. But the perfumer’s path soon caught up with him. “Because we produced raw materials for Grasse, I had the privilege of meeting major fragrance houses and having two mentors: my IFRA guide, Mr. Philippe Racine, who has been at Robertet for 30 years, and Mr. Richard Melchio, perfumer.” Scents became therapeutic tools, and for 15 years Jean-Charles blended essential oils with remarkable properties (respiratory, relaxing, digestive…) with perfume notes “to go further and add a touch of glamour.”
The Parisian elite seek him out to craft aromatic wellness fragrances or bespoke olfactory signatures. Palaces, the Quai Branly Museum, the Arab World Institute… all recognize the extraordinary talent of this young dandy. “For whoever mastered scents mastered the human heart.
Scent was the sister of breath. It entered people at the same moment as their breath; they could not defend themselves from it if they wished to live. And the scent passed straight into them, down to their heart, and there, infallibly, it determined inclination or contempt, disgust or desire, love or hatred.” (Editor’s note: *Perfume*, Patrick Süskind).
Natural compositions with the “Sommerard touch”
If breath is at the heart of his work, perspiration is its epicenter. “Being a perfumer is a job of every moment: you feed your sensitivity, classify notes into the drawers of your mind. Your memory builds itself through constant smelling.”
And creating natural fragrances requires outperforming, through humility and relentless work. While conventional perfumery, born in the late 19th century, has access to several thousand molecules, natural fragrances rely on only a few hundred. “The palette is limited. But by focusing on the great avenues of natural molecules, I can compose beautiful melodies, recreate a lily-of-the-valley accord, an opulent rose, freshly picked honeysuckle… and honor every family of fine perfumery.” When you consider that 5 to 7 molecules (Iso E, musk ketone, hedione, galaxolide, ethylene brassylate, calone…) appear in 50% of conventional formulas, the 300 molecules available to Jean-Charles allow him to create natural compositions that are more complex, yet elevated by what he calls “the Sommerard touch.” From his organ, this accomplished musician has already written more than a thousand such compositions, all respectful of life. “As an artist, I try to evoke emotion: 75% of emotion is generated through scent and smell.” And even if lovers of authenticity still crave a hint of synthetic familiarity, he manages to create natural accords that are just as rich, sophisticated, long-lasting, and transportive.
Between grounding and escape, natural fragrance is a lush and enchanting world that this author of reference works** and dedicated teacher has explored since his first steps on earth. Not everyone can become a leading figure in natural perfumery.
*Perfume, novel by Patrick Süskind
** Guide to Olfactotherapy, Essential oils to Care for Our Bodies and Support Our Emotions